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Messages - sonic32

#1
Hi,

There was already a topic here: converted to a sony projector:

https://www.gamoover.net/Forums/index.php?topic=36496.0

I think there must be a mirror
#2
If you can't get to the test menu, you can't find out how the steering wheel potentiometer is set.
The (earth, GND) cable leading to the coin machine may be broken somewhere.
Big fan, led to the engine, probably just cools the engine.
When you measure this fan, it should have 110v.
If there is power and it does not work, this fan can also be bought directly in our store (110V).
But it also has no effect on the engine's function.
Test menu will help a lot.
All Sega games have my value in the center set to 80, at least as far as I know.

Grounding (GND) of the test menu should be on CN12 on the game board, from there the cable leads to the test menu and service menu buttons
CN2 game board is where almost everything starts, service, test, gear 1, 2, 3, 4, coin, etc..
Gear 2 and 4can be a bad microswitch or a broken cable from this CN2
#3
Hi,
I don't have this cabin. I don't know how the second engine works
Try to launch (Test Menu) and then Input in the game.
The steering wheel in the center position should have a value of around (80).
If not, you have to set the potentiometer in the dashboard to this value.
If the value is correct in the test menu and the steering wheel is turned, loosen the screws on the steering wheel and center the steering wheel.


There should be a second potentiometer somewhere near the second motor that controls the position of the seat movement, it should also be set to the same value when the steering wheel and the seat are in the middle. I don't have this DEluxe cabin, so I can't give much advice..
#4
It's great that it works, the game board is fine.
The SONY projector can be nicely adjusted to a ratio of 4:3 and the horizontal and vertical size can also be adjusted well. The projector saves the settings.

I found something about force feedback (err 20) on another forum, it has something to do with the engine. Only this engine is more or less (indestructible).

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=133170.0

It should be a servo motor that does not have direct contacts.
When starting the machine, a self-test should always be started. Turn the steering wheel to the right and left and stop. If the machine does not do this, the cable may be loose.
If the test does not take place within a certain time, write an error (err..)
I had a similar problem but with mine (Sega Rally Twin). I only had a damaged cable.


If I turn on the machine, the steering wheel does nothing. Try to manually turn the steering wheel to the right and after a few seconds turn the steering wheel to the left.
If it keeps writing the same error, then something else is wrong..
It would be worse if it was a bad primo board feadbaack


Edit>
I'm glad you changed the source (necessity). The source and the monitor are the most thermally stressed parts and 30 years of use is a miracle and a ticking time bomb.

I had a high voltage of 220v on the metal cage (Game).
I measured the metal parts of the machine (voltage tester) used in the home.
I had bad sources (capacitors). The electrolyte leaked and shorted the high voltage to a low voltage. The game worked fine, but where I measured GND, grounding, on game boards, sound boards, etc. everywhere there was high voltage (220V). But the game worked (a miracle). I fixed the power supply and OK
#5
You're right, the video on scud race plus is really terrible, and changing these 10eprom can (maybe) affect the tilting and movement of the Deluxe version machine or something else.
I have never seen a Scud race plus deluxe cabin. I think this version was sent only in Japan and only Twin cabin..
#6
Hi,

In model 3, fans push air out of the play cage.
If it were the other way around, that the fans blow air on the game boards, then it would not be a problem to have an open cage.

I have Scud Race, but only a game that I play in the cabin of Sega Rally twin
I upgraded it a long time ago to the Scud race plus version, it was enough to upload 10 eproms. So you can upgrade your game in time
The game has one more track and you can play reversed tracks.
But if you go to transfer to PC, it's useless.
Via PC, you can play many games even with force feedback
#7
Hi, I just want to advise you not to be disappointed when the game suddenly stops working. You probably know this, but I'd rather write it down:
If you start the flood game Scud Race, you must check whether the two fans in the game tray are working. This hardware Model 3 is quite powerful machines. Without cooling, the graphics chips will immediately overheat and the graphics board or CPU board will be damaged.
It works on the principle of a vacuum cleaner, there must also be a top metal cover when the game is started.

I have never seen this Deluxe machine disassembled so I don't know how the green tubes work.
It will probably be quite a problem to get the original or a replacement.
If you found out what voltage goes into them, maybe 12V, I don't know.
I would use two 12v led strips.
I don't remember much, but they probably flash during the game, I don't know for sure..
#8
If you want to use a sony projector and it cannot find a signal..
You must turn off the automatic signal search in the projector menu and set the (VGA A) port to (Computer).
Connect the cable to the Port (VGA A) and a nice 24Khz image will be displayed directly (model 3)
#9
Hi,

Nice cabin, I always wanted to have this Deluxe version,
I will follow the progress, fingers crossed
I have a Sony VPL SX 125 projector, it displays 24khz directly in 640x480 resolution, I tried many Sega model 3 games on it, no need for GBS8200.
The neon tube can be anything, cold white is probably the brightest.
I also used a sega rally twin tube, classic for 220v and it works well.
If the tube starter is in order, the tube must light up.
The starter is powered by a large transformer, which should also power the 110v fans.
#10
Alimentation, Electricité / Arduino to Model 3?
Mardi 25 Janvier 2022, 19:57:04 PM
Thank you,

it's a great solution.
I didn't even know there was such a possibility.
I'm just waiting for the rom board Lost World Jurassic Park and the lightgun (Sega Saturn), which I will redesign for this system.
#11
Alimentation, Electricité / Arduino to Model 3?
Mardi 25 Janvier 2022, 19:08:55 PM
I guess I found a solution.
Gun2Naomi light - it could work with the right connection.
#12
Alimentation, Electricité / Arduino to Model 3?
Dimanche 23 Janvier 2022, 10:03:25 AM
Hi,

Please, I need advice on who has experience with Model 2 and 3 games
I also plan to buy games for the Light Gun, (Jurassic Park and House of the Death)
Can I buy something instead of expensive original pistols, sensors and IO Gun Board?
( The set of pistols also costs 1000 euros).
I know there is a way to connect Pc Lightgun games to the Terminal but I need the opposite direction.
I know that Model 2 uses Port (RS 422) and Model 3 also has this port (RS 422). What are Analog inputs?
Can you join them, for example (Arduino and Wiimote?)
or another type of weapon such as Sinden, Aimtrack, GUN4IR?
#14
Ok, thank you for your work ^-
#15
It's a fantastic job, thank you for that. ^-^

DSB boards are quite corrupt.
Also many videos from Youtube (original Arcade).
Only listen to sounds but not Mpeg, they probably also have faulty DSB ..
If it can be replaced (Arduino and DFplayer) is great.

I've had Dead DSB boards for a long time (Scud Race and Sega Rally 2).

I have a lot of Arduino and DFplayer, so I have the opportunity to build it ...
#16
Hi,

I know it's an older topic,
I'm just trying to find a diagram of this connection and without luck.

Should anyone data the schematic of this UDSB or connect with arduino?

THIS:

Does anyone have a schematic and code?

https://www.neo-arcadia.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=74709