Auteur Sujet: Sega G-loc deluxe motor power supply  (Lu 8793 fois)

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« Réponse #16 le: Jeudi 05 Janvier 2017, 18:32:36 pm »
  • Again thanks for your help, and also the component chart
    All the links (components chart, schematic draft..) I gave do not come out of nowhere, they aren't hidden and are included inside the two main threads about these motor driver boards :

    I just need to figure out if the M8GZ46 can be used in TR1
    Coming soon...
    Le repos, c'est fait pour les jeunes. Ils ont toute la vie devant eux. J. Gabin/M. Audiard



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    « Réponse #17 le: Jeudi 05 Janvier 2017, 21:46:19 pm »
  • Hi

    Regarding the TR1 - I have mixed it up with another part ...

    The replacement for TR1 is BT138-600E (mentioned here http://www.gamoover.net/Forums/index.php?topic=28660.80)

    The part i also have ordered on ebay, but not yet recived

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    « Réponse #18 le: Mardi 17 Janvier 2017, 12:30:58 pm »
  • Hi

    Just an small update - just comment / correct me if i am missing something :)

    1. I am still waiting for the "R24" resistor to arrive from china.  :-\
    I have also tested the old resistor in my "china component tester" it reeds as 2.6ohms, a bit high i think? so i do want to solder it in again. So i have not yet tested the "L2" transformer. - do you think i need to when the resistor seems to be fine?

    ("Q1" also seems to be fine - i have compared it with a new K1535 in my tester and they reeads the same values)


    2. I have changed all the 78L15 and 78L05 with some new ones - i tested the old one's in my tester, and they gave different results, so i think that it where good that i replaced them. ^-


    3. Replaced some of the Ceramic Disc Capacitor's (104) - 25V, they looked burned but when i tested them they tested OK, but changed them anyway.

    4. Changed TR1 to a BT138-600E

    5. Changed IC1

    6. My board is the SEGA 400-5117 the D20,D22,D24,D26 is according to the component chart S20LCA20, but i am only able to find S20LC20U. Does it matter? are the two comonents not identical?



    .. So i hope i am ready to power it on when i receive the R24 resistor... and hopefully no smoke.. i pray that the powersupply works  ^-^
    « Modifié: Mardi 17 Janvier 2017, 14:52:55 pm par perjmolsen »

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    « Réponse #19 le: Dimanche 22 Janvier 2017, 15:05:42 pm »
  • Hi

    Latest update... i have now turned on the power.. but no 12V or 5 Volt are present.  :'(

    I have removed the solder bridge and de-solder the L2 transformer, and i am trying to understand the diagram here http://hico-srv004.pixhotel.fr/sites/default/files/gamoovernet/20130822135915-gc339-ConverBT.GIF

    How do i find leg one?

    The L2 transformer has 12 legs in total - where is leg one?
    I have attached a picture og the transformer:

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    « Réponse #20 le: Dimanche 22 Janvier 2017, 15:14:53 pm »
  • Hi

    I if test the L2 this way i get 65PF... is that corect?

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    « Réponse #21 le: Lundi 23 Janvier 2017, 09:19:10 am »
  • Hi

    I figured out how to find the corect legs at L2 and messure the coils.. hint.. look at the schematics  ^-^

    If i use my china tester i get some funny results? (25-25pF between eatch coils).. i guess that it is the tester who is to cheap  :)

    If i messure the Ohms with my multimeter i get followig messurements:

    1-6 = 0.4 ohm
    2-5 = OL
    3-5 =0.4 ohm
    3-4 = 5.3 ohm
    7-8= 0.6 ohm
    10-11 0.5 ohm
    13-14 0.5 ohm

    So no coils are dead, is that correct... then why do i not have 12V or 5V...  :'(
    I have removed the solder bridge.

    Can it be one of the D20-D26 who are defect? can it trigger a shutdown of 12V

    Im a bit stuck... i hope someone can give me a hint.. (GC339 maybee) :)
    « Modifié: Mardi 24 Janvier 2017, 15:08:08 pm par perjmolsen »

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    « Réponse #22 le: Lundi 23 Janvier 2017, 12:04:19 pm »
  • Sorry, I missed the last messages.

    Pin 1 is indicated by the truncated (or rounded) corner. Then you need to count the pins clockwise when you look at the bottom of the item or in a counterclockwise direction if you look at it from its top. Free places (not equipped with pins) must also be numbered for the count to be right.
    F and S wires are those which are directly soldered on the printed circuit.



    The resistance of the windings seems a bit too high regarding the one I measured, it seems you failed to take in account the additional resistance inserted by the ohmmeter wires.

    This kind of tester you use should be able to measure inductances, please check this ability on the Chinese seller's advertisement.
    The display of a winding check should look like this :

    « Modifié: Lundi 23 Janvier 2017, 12:17:02 pm par gc339 »
    Le repos, c'est fait pour les jeunes. Ils ont toute la vie devant eux. J. Gabin/M. Audiard



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    « Réponse #23 le: Lundi 23 Janvier 2017, 14:35:37 pm »
  • Hi GC339 ;)

    My tester can messure inductances (according to seller)

    It seems that it is the wire+aligator clip who is causing my tester to mailfunction...constant get (25 pF)  if i test a component directly in the tester it testes fine.. if i test the same component with the extention wire, then it fails. >:D ( I just have removed the plactic cover over the aligator clip and the solder where cold..dammit! why did i not think of that before!) I just made a new wire and soldered the aligator clip on and now i can read with wires

    Dammit and i have just solder the L2 transformer back in the PCB..  >:D and i guess i need to test it outsite pcb.. then there is no other option thant to de solder it one more time

    Is there a way that i can check that there is power to the L2 transformer... i think if i have missed a dead component before the L2 transformer...maybe a component is causing it not to get powered..

    Thanks again for your help.. ^-
    « Modifié: Lundi 23 Janvier 2017, 14:51:45 pm par perjmolsen »

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    « Réponse #24 le: Mardi 24 Janvier 2017, 10:28:01 am »
  • Hi Gc339

    If i need to check that there is power to the L2 transformer - is it then possible to measure it at points marked below?



    I guess that there need to be 220V at the test points?

    (sorry for the maybe dumb questions, but i am trying to learn as i go forward)  ;)

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    « Réponse #25 le: Mardi 24 Janvier 2017, 21:03:35 pm »
  • Firstly, it is not advisable to do these measurements with the PCB connected directly to the mains. It's safer for you to supply it through an isolation transformer.

    Then remove the solder jumper to disconnect the four power VMOS of the H bridge, as I did at 1ère Etape

    At the indicated test points you must measure a DC voltage of 310V (220Vac × √2).
    Le repos, c'est fait pour les jeunes. Ils ont toute la vie devant eux. J. Gabin/M. Audiard



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    « Réponse #26 le: Mardi 24 Janvier 2017, 21:42:26 pm »
  • Then remove the solder jumper to disconnect the four power VMOS of the H bridge, as I did at 1ère Etape

    I have removed the solder jumper  ^-


    At the indicated test points you must measure a DC voltage of 310V (220Vac × √2).
    [/quote]

    Just to be completly sure, the test points are those i have marked with the red circle here:?


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    « Réponse #27 le: Jeudi 26 Janvier 2017, 21:28:49 pm »
  • Godafternoon :)

    I have made som tests today, to figure out why i do not have 12V or 5V

    1. If I made a diode test with my multimeter at the bridge rectifier mountet in circut i get the following:

    Positive test lead at + and negative on "wavy lines" i get 05.30ohm - if i reverse that OL, seems OK?

    Positive test lead at + and negative on - i get 10.08 ohm - if i reverse that OL, - thats a bit high is that correct? i think its caused because it is messured in circut.

    2. If i messure the voltage at the bridge rectifier, with leads connected to + and - i get 248,9V DC - Thats quite low? is not? it shoud be 310V - so it might be the cap's at C8 and C9 who is bad?



    3. If i test the C8 and C9 (in circut) i get 818 uf.
    UPDATED: I have de-solder the C8 and C9 and messure them 806 uF ESR=0.01 ohm and 828 Uf and ESR=0.02 ohm



    Can it be the low voltage it is causing the 12V and 5V not to be present?

    4. I allready have som new 1000Uf 200V caps, if i messurfe them (out of circut) i get 894 uF.



    I think, and hope, if i change the C8 and C9 the voltage will rise to 310V and the 12V would be present, or am i at the wrong track?
    « Modifié: Jeudi 26 Janvier 2017, 23:00:42 pm par perjmolsen »

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    « Réponse #28 le: Jeudi 26 Janvier 2017, 22:33:53 pm »
  • "Good" afternoon again....

    So now i soldered the two new caps in... but still only 243.6V messured at + and - at the bridge rectifier.  :bail:
    What am i doing wrong.. nearly crying.. i have hoped that i have had 340V and also 12V at this point...



    Is my new "china" caps bad also? i have messured them at 894 Uf ESR=0.04 ohm

    A nightmare.. but i refuse to give up.. but i need help again :)
    « Modifié: Jeudi 26 Janvier 2017, 22:39:37 pm par perjmolsen »

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    « Réponse #29 le: Jeudi 26 Janvier 2017, 23:09:52 pm »
  • If i messure the voltage at the bridge rectifier, with leads connected to + and - i get 248,9V DC - Thats quite low? is not? it shoud be 310V - so it might be the cap's at C8 and C9 who is bad?

    ≈249VDC measured between the outputs "+" & "" of the bridge rectifier would mean 176VAC between the inputs "~" of this bridge. Are you sure your mains voltage is OK? Have you measured it?
    For exemple, here at home in France, the mains voltage is about 240 VAC and the rectified voltage sets around 340 VDC.



    Are you sure R1 & R2 are OK ?

    Is the DC voltage at the terminals of C8 equal to that at the terminals of C9?
    Are these also equal to half the voltage at the output of the rectifier even if you only measure 249VDC?
    « Modifié: Jeudi 26 Janvier 2017, 23:15:13 pm par gc339 »
    Le repos, c'est fait pour les jeunes. Ils ont toute la vie devant eux. J. Gabin/M. Audiard



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    « Réponse #30 le: Vendredi 27 Janvier 2017, 09:07:54 am »
  • Hi GC339  :D

    Thanks for your reply  :-)=

    1. The mains voltage coming out of the socket here in Denmark is abaut 230V AC.
    I will check the voltage at the "wavy lines" on  bridge rectifier and let you know what that measures.

    2. I have not checked the R1 and R2
    I will de solder them and measure them and let you know the result

    3. I will also try to measure the voltage between the C8 and C9 terminals and let you know.

    A huge thanks one more time - now i have some steps to preform and get a bit closer  ^-

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    « Réponse #31 le: Vendredi 27 Janvier 2017, 16:56:12 pm »
  • Hi

    Just an update.

    Regarding the R1 and R2 resistors - I have de solder them and they are dead! - so you naild it GC339  ^-



    I just have ordered 5pcs of 5W 1.2 Ohm at ebay

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162137410017?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=461108678563&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    Hopefully they will arrive soon :)
    « Modifié: Vendredi 27 Janvier 2017, 17:13:20 pm par perjmolsen »