Auteur Sujet: Sega G-loc deluxe motor power supply  (Lu 8360 fois)

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« Réponse #48 le: Jeudi 09 Février 2017, 21:10:22 pm »
  • HI G339

    No problem :)

    I have de-soldred the D11 also - and messured it too, it reads in tester:  diode Uf=581 mv c=11pf

    switched power on at the pcb, and put the test probes at the fan outlet,no 12V present :(

    I have double checked the Q1 a K1535 it checks OK in the tester:


    Also checked the Q2 a C1627A .. but in the component cart is ony a C1627..no "A" DO I have put in the wrong component..? when i check it:
    « Modifié: Jeudi 09 Février 2017, 21:39:53 pm par perjmolsen »

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    « Réponse #49 le: Jeudi 09 Février 2017, 21:55:25 pm »
  • Have you checked all the components inside the blue-sky layout ?


    Le repos, c'est fait pour les jeunes. Ils ont toute la vie devant eux. J. Gabin/M. Audiard



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    « Réponse #50 le: Vendredi 10 Février 2017, 08:23:06 am »
  • Hi GC339

    No i have not yet tested them all - I will have the components de-soldred to night and test them in my china tester :)
    I will let you know the result :)

    Kind regards
    « Modifié: Vendredi 10 Février 2017, 12:39:57 pm par perjmolsen »

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    « Réponse #51 le: Mercredi 15 Février 2017, 10:45:02 am »
  • Hi Gc339

    Sorry for the delay but I did not have any spare time this weekend to test the components.
    But now i have tested the components and there might be two who is defective

    D5 - I have tested the diode in citcut and i get 0000V (in diode mode test - both ways), if i test in conecticvity i get a short.
    ZD1 - the same result, if i test in circut i get 0000V (in diode mode test - both ways) if i test in conecticvity i get a short.

    If i am correct the D5 and ZD1 is defective, correct? - if so i need to figure out where to get that componets on ebay..

    If i look D5 up in your chart it is a S118? what is that? :)
    And ZD1 is 13Z, how to find them?

    The ZD1 is this the one? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121782360886?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    Note..As a diode reference in circut i have also tested D6+D7 also in citcut i get 0,514V when black test lead to black on diode, and OL the other way - so thats reads correct.

    All the other tested components reads OK according to your component chart (tested out of circut in china tester)

    R25= 10,24k
    R23=179,8k
    C15= 10,4 uf esr=170ohm
    R22=46,5k
    R28=4,7
    R28=2,4
    R26= No component
    R24= 220
    R21a= 69,9
    R21b=68,7
    Zd2= Diode uf=719mv C028pf
    D6= Black test lead on black stripe on component - 0,514v - reverse leads OL
    D7= Black test lead on black stripe on component - 0,514v - reverse leads OL
    D5= Short (tested in Circut)
    Zd1= Short (tested in circut)
    « Modifié: Mercredi 15 Février 2017, 10:53:43 am par perjmolsen »

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    « Réponse #52 le: Mercredi 15 Février 2017, 13:22:58 pm »
  • I had the same issue with somes S118 witch were on the PWM side of the board.
    gc339 told me:

    "Ca y est, selon la norme japonaise JIS, c'est une diode de signal avec préfixe "1S" (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JIS_semiconductor_designation)
    c'est donc une 1SS118 Hitachi. Datasheet : http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets2/17/17939_1.pdf
    Une 1N4148 devrait faire l'affaire quoique l'intensité admissible par cette dernière soit moindre."

    Hope he can confirm you this ;)

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    « Réponse #53 le: Mercredi 15 Février 2017, 17:03:02 pm »
  • Yes, S118 is the shortcut for the japanese reference Hitachi 1SS118 (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JIS_semiconductor_designation)

    About the 13Z diode, sure it's a zener diode but the suffix is unknown. So I am unable to certify it's a 13 volts item, for example it exists the 1SZ13 diode which is a 36 volts zener!
    Le repos, c'est fait pour les jeunes. Ils ont toute la vie devant eux. J. Gabin/M. Audiard



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    « Réponse #54 le: Mercredi 15 Février 2017, 18:44:20 pm »
  • HI

    Thanks for claifying the items.

    The D5, the 1SS118 I have orderd some on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182455364389?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT - then i jusy need to wait

    Regarding the ZD1, 13Z - if i order some of theese 13V here..  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121782360886?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    If i check a 16Y zener (as referenze) in this catalog it's a 16V zener.. so i think but i am not sure that a 13Z is a 13V?
    https://www.sos.sk/pdf/SMD_Catalog.pdf

    And if they are the wrong one's would they burn up if it is the wrong component?
    « Modifié: Mercredi 15 Février 2017, 18:51:28 pm par perjmolsen »

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    « Réponse #55 le: Mercredi 15 Février 2017, 18:53:06 pm »
  • The best way to know the zener voltage of diode 13Z is to measure it on the other diode 13Z (ZD02) which is normally OK.

    Here is a simple checker schematic. It should be suitable for measuring a zener up to 15 volts, otherwise it will require a voltage source higher than the two 9 volts batteries.



    Here another measure which unfortunately requires a more sophisticated apparatus : http://jestineyong.com/how-to-measure-the-voltage-rating-of-a-zener-diode/
    « Modifié: Mercredi 15 Février 2017, 19:01:03 pm par gc339 »
    Le repos, c'est fait pour les jeunes. Ils ont toute la vie devant eux. J. Gabin/M. Audiard



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    « Réponse #56 le: Mercredi 15 Février 2017, 19:44:06 pm »
  • Hi Gc339

    I have now tested the ZD02 as in the diagram abowe.
    I have 17,18V in my to batterys.



    And when the Zener diode is connected it drops to 14,1V
    So it must be a 13V Zener.. i do do not seems to find any 14V zener diode on ebay?
    « Modifié: Mercredi 15 Février 2017, 21:18:15 pm par perjmolsen »

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    « Réponse #58 le: Mercredi 15 Février 2017, 22:03:15 pm »
  • Zener diodes have a certain accuracy and the 14 volts you measured are always within the tolerance range of 10% of the expected 13 volts.
    So 13 volts is the right value (E24 serie) and 0,5 watt of max power should be OK.

    The diodes of the link you gave do not have a manufacturer reference and this is a bit disturbing. It will be advised to measure them with the checker before soldering.
    Le repos, c'est fait pour les jeunes. Ils ont toute la vie devant eux. J. Gabin/M. Audiard



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    « Réponse #59 le: Mercredi 22 Février 2017, 20:38:22 pm »
  • Hi

    I have now recived Zenner diodes and tested one

    The "ZD1" / 13V zenner diode tests as 14,8V



    Also recived the part for "D5" some 1N4148

    So now time to solder them in and see if there is 12V

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    « Réponse #60 le: Jeudi 23 Février 2017, 21:15:10 pm »
  • Well...

    I soldered the "ZD1" zenner diode in, and also D5
    The diodes D9,D10,D3 and D11 where still not soldered in.

    Then i turned on the power and 12V at the FAN outlet  :-)= :-)=



    The i soldered the D9,D10,D3 and D11 in - and turned on the power
    12V still at FAN outlet... and the suddenly BANG and i lost the power in my room..and a smell.. FUCK!

    I think that the L2 now is dead... is smells bad... Dammit! so close then back to start, and now i might be unable to fix it...


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    « Réponse #61 le: Jeudi 23 Février 2017, 21:17:01 pm »
  • A picture of the damaged arera... i am unable to upload the smell...

    so so sad....


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    « Réponse #62 le: Vendredi 24 Février 2017, 10:17:12 am »
  • Hi Again...

    I have found the reason why it blow up... When soldered the D3 diode in i have turned it the wrong way!
    I always check my work.. but this time overlooked one with fatal consequences...

    FUCK! >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D >:D

    I have another Power supply laying who also is dead... i might be able to salvage the L2 transformer from this and turn around the D3 diode BEFORE applying voltage...
    But i wonder if there might has been more damage to this, so it might be a bad idea..

    What are GC339 verdict? :)
    « Modifié: Vendredi 24 Février 2017, 10:31:51 am par perjmolsen »

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    « Réponse #63 le: Dimanche 05 Mars 2017, 10:28:16 am »
  • Hi

    Well.. i have testet the L2 transformer from the other PCB who where defective, and it seems that is is defective also..

    The picture below shows my tests with my multimeter.
    The one labeld "New salvage" is the transformer from my salvage PCB, and the other named "old" is the one that i blew up by turning the D3 diode the wrong way.. note I have also de soldred the D3 diode, it there broken i half..



    So i think that where the final nail, not to get my Sega Gloc up and running  :'(
    I am unable to find any transformers named PQ2016 on the web.. I have only found them on two pages, but they do not respond to my emails.

    BUT!

    2 chance in getting my gloc up and running



    I have a third and final PCB, the one i have been working on also.
    I have managed to get the 12V and 5V present  ^-,
    But there is no movement when i mount it in my g-loc, and i do not have the tools or the skills to use a oscilloscope, so that i can not test it.
    The following steps in the guide is spon on http://www.gamoover.net/Forums/index.php?topic=28660.0

    Step2: 12V and 5 Vold is present according to guide
    Step3: 7V and 5V is present according to guide

    Step4: Input 17V, ZD3 15V, PC7=5V,PC8=5V
    Note changed "Q12" before the change of "Q12" there where 15V at PC8 (leg8) -> It may be the reason for the missing movement, that PC8 is dead due to high current?

    Step5: test in step "A"  is spot on 15V and 5V Step "B" is spot on 15V and 5V
    Step6,7,8: Tested the diodes - all checks fine in the china tester according to guide.
    Step9: Unable to test, no skills
    Step10:Unable to test, no skills
    Step11:Unable to test, no skills
    Step12: Tested sensor with solder iron and multimeter, it checks out good.
    Step13:Unable to test, no skills
    Step14:Unable to test, no skills

    When i test it in my g-loc (i have one working PSU)
    Then the g loc rises one in one side, the side where the woring PSU is mounted, if i run a test and try to power the PSU that i have fixed there is statc on the screen, and i can hear a humm but no motion at all.

    So now i am dead in the water, and realy in need of rescue :)
    « Modifié: Jeudi 09 Mars 2017, 10:51:13 am par perjmolsen »